MA Practice Three - Lining Research

Whilst exploring Harvey Nichols I noticed that Coach use a cotton twill which looks really well finished in comparison, Nico Giani use a heavy canvas which looks quite bulky and heavy, such a heavy lining in a well-made elegant design ruins the finish on these bags.

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Sourced From: 100% Calf leather 100% Lining cotton

Most of Sofia Webster's handbags are unlined and use 100% Leather however in the Evie Butterfly Detail Shoulder Bag, Webster uses 50% Cotton and 50% Polyester grosgrain, it has a shine to it which I'm not entirely sure is aesthetically what I'm hoping to achieve.

Sourced From: Lining: 50% Cotton and 50% Polyester grosgrain

Similarly, Vivienne Westwood uses a synthetic silky fabric which is woven with the brand name, this is an interesting concept although not something I am willing to peruse at this stage as it would be too expensive. I have considered printing branding onto the linings of the bags but I feel that I should use a placement design rather than an all over print like bigger more established brands.

Sourced From: Outer Composition: 100% PolyVinyl Chloride

Hermes, Christian Lou Boutin and Alexander McQueen, very expensive and well established brands use soft coloured suedes and leathers within their designs, something I experimented with last year when creating printed leather clutch bags. These linings made the bags very expensive to produce and this is something I need to take into consideration when creating prototypes for the brand. It would be difficult to sustain this level of luxury whilst being affordable. Suede is also very difficult to print onto, something which is definitely important to my brand which can't be sacrificed as this is something I strive to include in my work.

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Nappa leather lining.

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Lining: Calfskin and specchio finish calfskin

Kate spade is the only brand I have come across which includes a printed poly twill; the fabric has a shine although it is strong and durable. The print it the same in each bag, a navy blue and white striped design, I noticed that this is cleverly lined up on the seam of the lining. This boasts luxury - another thing that I need to consider.

Sourced From: natural straw with crosshatched leather trim and bookstripe print on poly twill lining

Whilst exploring Selfridges I found a range of linings, Stella McCartney’s faux leather designs use a branded woven silky lining made of nylon, similar to Marc Jacobs. However more expensive brands such as Chloe, Givenchy, Anya Hindmarch and Sophie Hulme use suede and the suede of the back of the leather the shell is made of.

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Fully lined with Stella McCartney logo print nylon, inside pocket and top snap closure.

In comparison, quite well known luxury designers such as Valentino and Fendi are using a soft medium weight cotton and cotton twill lining. Initially I expected that more expensive brands would use a branded woven lining but the bags that I prefer are all lined with a cotton or poly cotton twill fabric of a medium weight. I want to further my practice by having some different fabrics printed to experiment with lining my designs. I will follow this up with de Lacy and review our collaborations over the next couple of weeks.

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